Limerick
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Photos: (top, from left) King John's Castle, Limerick, and Flying Boat Museum at Foynes; (bottom, from left) typical thatched-roof cottage at Adare, and Glenstal Abbey .
Mention "Angela's Ashes" (the Prize-winning novel of Limerick-born author Frank McCourt) — and images come to mind of a poverty-ridden Limerick of yesteryear. Limerick of today is a totally different story.
Progressive, prosperous, and picturesque, Limerick is a busy seaport and manufacturing center, as well as an important communications hub. Limerick is also a key learning center, home to the University of Limerick and an array of regional schools.
Strategically set beside the Shannon River, Limerick City has a long and varied history that reflects the Viking, Norman, Medieval, and Georgian traditions and architecture. The oldest section of the city is Kings Island on the north side, sometimes called the "medieval quarter," and the newest section is on the south side in an area called Newtown Pery, lined with lovely rows of Georgian townhouses.
King John's Castle, Nicholas St., Kings Island, tel. 061-360788, is Limerick City's major attraction, enhanced by a $5 million restoration program. The layout is designed to bring the castle's 800's year-old history to life in an exciting and interactive way, with state-of-the-art exhibits and three-dimensional displays. In addition, there are outdoor attractions, starting behind the castle with a cobbled courtyard and a cast of costumed characters who practice medieval trades and crafts including the minting of ancient coins. Stroll at your own pace beside the Shannon River and chat with each craftsman along the way. Adjacent is Castle Lane, an authentic 18th-19th century street, lined with buildings that represent Limerick's architectural heritage — a granary, two Dutch gable-fronted houses, a laborer's cottage, and a tavern. Thousands of bricks from original 18th century Limerick city buildings were used in the construction of Castle Lane to insure an authentic streetscape. Open daily. Web site: www.shannonheritage.com
Two other important buildings from the past are:
St. Mary's Cathedral, Bridge St., tel. 061-310293, a massive Romanesque and Gothic church, dating back to 1142. As Limerick's prime ecclesiastical landmark, it contains many fine antiquities including a pre-Reformation stone altar reputed to be the largest in Ireland or Britain. Open daily. Web site: www.cathedral.limerick.anglican.org/
Hunt Museum, Rutland St., tel. 061-312833, is Limerick's stellar museum, housing the Hunt Collection, a comprising 3,000 art objects (valued at over 50 million Irish pounds) from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages to modern times including a Picasso. It is housed in the former Custom House, a handsome 18th century Palladian-style edifice, an attraction in itself. Open daily. Web site: www.huntmuseum.com
The County of Limerick also offers:
Adare Heritage Centre, Main St., Adare, tel. 061-396666, is the focal point of the picturesque village of Adare. It tells the story of this picture-postcard village of thatched-roof cottages, Tudor-style buildings, and colorful gardens. Tours are also offered to the nearby Desmond castle; and traditional music is presented on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings in July and August. Open Daily. Web site: www.adareheritagecentre.ie
Foynes Flying Boat Museum, Main St., Foynes, tel. 069-65416, the only dedicated flying boat museum in the world, occupies the site of the "first Shannon Airport," predecessor of the modern airport of today. Recently revamped and expanded, the museum commemorates an era begun on 9 July 1939, when Pan Am's luxury flying boat, Yankee Clipper, landed at Foynes, marking the first commercial passenger flight on the direct route between the US and Europe. The museum includes the original terminal building, radio and weather rooms, flight simulators, and the B-12 Yankee Clipper aircraft complete with its "honeymoon suite." Open daily, April to October. Web site: www.flyingboatmuseum.com
Glenstal Abbey, Murroe, tel. 061-386103, is the home of the Benedictine Monks who have recorded several albums of religious music and chant including the best-selling "Faith of Our Fathers" with the late Frank Patterson. The abbey, which is also a school for boys, is a 19th century Norman-style castle. Although the school is not open to the public, visitors are welcome to tour the grounds and attend the music-filled services in the chapel, with over three dozen monks singing. Web site: www.glenstalabbey.org
Lough Gur, near Bruff, Co. Limerick (tel. 061 360788), is an archaeological gem of ancient monuments, dating back 5,000 years. Excavations have shown that this area had continuous occupation from the Neolithic period to late medieval times. Highlights include the foundations of small farmsteads built c. 900 A.D., a lake island dwelling built between 500 A.D. and 1000 A.D., a wedge-shaped tomb that was a communal grave in 2500 B.C., and a Grand Stone Circle, said to be the largest and finest of its kind in Ireland, built c. 2,000 B.C. Open daily, May – September. Web site: www.shannonheritage.com
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